My Love Affair with the Phi Phi Island (And Everything I Wish I’d Known Before Going)

My Love Affair with the Phi Phi Island (And Everything I Wish I'd Known Before Going)

My Love Affair with the Phi Phi Island (And Everything I Wish I’d Known Before Going)

Last Updated on November 20, 2024 by Daniel Williams

Okay, let’s talk about the Phi Phi Islands. I first ended up here in 2019 completely by accident – my original plans for Koh Lanta fell through (thanks, monsoon season), and Phi Phi was basically my Plan B. Spoiler alert: it turned out to be one of those happy accidents that changed everything. Three years and countless sunburns later, I’m still not over these islands.

Getting Here (Without Losing Your Mind)

First things first – getting to Phi Phi. The ferry ride from Phuket to Phi Phi Island honestly isn’t the luxury cruise experience some travel blogs might have you believe. It’s more like a floating bus with views that’ll make your Instagram followers hate you.

Quick story: On my first trip, I almost missed the ferry because I got the pier locations mixed up (yes, there are TWO piers in Phuket – don’t be like me). Ended up throwing money at a taxi driver who, bless him, got me there with minutes to spare. Now I just book through 12Go Asia like a normal person and save myself the drama.

Cost? Around 400 baht, give or take. Worth every penny for those views, even if the coffee on board tastes like warm dishwater.

From Phuket to Phi Phi Islands: Everything You Need to Know

Phuket to Phi Phi Island by boat
Image: Victor Nguyen

Let me start by saying I’ve done this journey about a dozen times now, and I’ve learned there’s a right way and a “why is my ferry leaving without me?” way to do it. Here’s everything I wish someone had told me before my first trip. Both when it comes to specifics such as locations, but also an overview of prices and durations. Remember that you are in Thailand, and haggling about the price is just norm.

The Ferry Options (And Where They Actually Leave From)

So first things first – you’ve got two main piers in Phuket where ferries depart to Phi Phi:

Rassada Pier (Main Pier)

  • Location: 23/3 Moo1, Rasada Road, Phuket Town
  • This is the main pier most ferries use
  • About 20-30 minutes from Patong Beach by taxi
  • Pro tip: Save “ท่าเรือราษฎา” in your phone to show Thai drivers

Bang Rong Pier

  • Located in northeast Phuket
  • Mainly speedboats
  • More expensive but faster
  • Better choice if you’re staying near Bang Tao or Surin Beach

Ferry Companies I Actually Trust

I’ve tried them all, and here’s the real deal:

Chao Koh Group (My Go-To Choice)

  • Most reliable schedules
  • Newer boats
  • Departs from Rassada Pier
  • Morning departures: 8:30 AM and 11:00 AM
  • Afternoon departure: 2:00 PM
  • Cost: Around 400 THB one-way
  • Air-conditioned indoor seating
  • Homepage

Andaman Wave Master

  • Similar prices
  • Speedboats available (et a higher cost)
  • Morning departure: 8:30 AM
  • Afternoon departures: 1:30 PM and 3:00 PM
  • Homepage

Getting to the Pier from Popular Areas

From Patong Beach:

  • Grab taxi: 500-600 THB (40 mins)
  • Shared minivan: 200 THB (1 hour)
  • Book through your hotel: Usually 200-250 THB
  • Leave at least 2 hours before ferry departure (learned this the hard way)

From Phuket Town:

  • Grab taxi: 200-300 THB (15 mins)
  • Tuk-tuk: Around 200 THB
  • Local bus: 50 THB (but unreliable schedule)

From Kata/Karon:

  • Grab taxi: 600-700 THB (1 hour)
  • Hotel minivan service: 250-300 THB
  • Leave 2.5 hours before departure time

When to Visit (Real Talk)

Look, I’ve been here during peak season (November to February) and off-season, and honestly? Both have their moments. Peak season is gorgeous but packed – think perfect weather and prices that’ll make your wallet cry. My last trip was in June, and yeah, it rained, but watching lightning storms over the Andaman Sea from a beach bar? Pure magic.

Just don’t come during the really rainy season (September-October) unless you’re really into indoor activities and card games. Learn from my mistakes, people.

Where to Sleep (Without Breaking the Bank)

Can we talk about accommodation? Because this is important. My first night ever on Phi Phi, I booked this super cheap hostel near the party beach. Big mistake. HUGE. Turns out “party beach” isn’t just a cute nickname – it’s a warning.

Now I swear by Phi Phi The Beach Resort. It’s not the fanciest place on the island, but the views are insane, and you can actually sleep at night. Plus, the staff remembers you if you come back (shoutout to Nan at reception who always hooks me up with the best room available).

Budget travelers, listen up: Tropical Garden Bungalows is your spot. Yes, the WiFi is spotty, and yes, you might have to make friends with a few geckos, but it’s clean, central, and the garden is gorgeous. Plus, the owner makes the best mango smoothies I’ve ever had.

The Places Everyone Takes Photos Of

Maya Bay: The Instagram vs Reality Situation

Remember that Leonardo DiCaprio movie “The Beach“? Yeah, Maya Bay is that beach. It closed for a while to recover from overtourism (we humans really know how to ruin a good thing, don’t we?), but it reopened in 2022. Hot take: it’s actually better now. They limit visitors, which means you can take photos without twenty other tourists in the background. Just book ahead – I learned this one the hard way after showing up spontaneously and getting turned away. Not my proudest moment.

The Famous Viewpoint (That Nearly Killed Me)

Viewpoint Phi Phi
Image: Maksim Shutov

So, about that viewpoint everyone raves about… Nobody tells you it’s basically a StairMaster workout in 90% humidity. The first time I tried it, I was wearing flip-flops (rookie mistake) and had to buy overpriced water from a clever vendor halfway up. But you know what? The view at the top made me forget all about my questionable life choices. Go early morning – unless you enjoy feeling like you’re hiking through soup.

The Fun Stuff

Skip those massive tour boats that pack you in like sardines. Just don’t. Instead, make friends at your hotel and split a long-tail boat. Best decision ever. My go-to guy is Mr. Chai – look for the boat with the purple flag near the main pier. He knows all the secret spots and won’t judge you when you scream after seeing a fish (not that I’ve done that…).

Snorkeling tip: Bamboo Island is where it’s at. Saw my first reef shark there and nearly forgot how to swim. They’re harmless, but try telling that to your brain when you’re in the water with them!

Monkey Beach (And Why It Both Amazed and Terrified Me)

Okay, we need to talk about Monkey Beach. You know those cute monkey videos on TikTok? Yeah, this isn’t that. My first visit was… interesting. I showed up with a banana in my bag (I know, I know – rookie mistake), and within seconds, a furry little gang member had unzipped my backpack and was going through my stuff like a tiny, hairy TSA agent.

Here’s the thing nobody tells you about Monkey Beach: these monkeys are basically the local mafia. They’re cute, sure, but they’ve got absolutely zero respect for personal space and they’ve mastered the art of the snatch-and-grab. I watched one steal a guy’s Ray-Bans right off his face! (Plot twist: the monkey actually dropped them later, but still – not cool, monkey. Not cool.)

The beach itself is gorgeous – we’re talking pristine white sand and crystal-clear water. But you’ve got to be smart about it. I learned to visit in the early morning when the monkeys are still sleepy and less interested in your belongings. And whatever you do, DON’T bring food. Trust me on this one – eating a sandwich here is basically issuing an open invitation to a monkey party you definitely don’t want to host.

Pro tip: Keep your phone close (these little rascals love shiny things), and if you want photos, try to get them from the boat first. Some of my best shots were actually taken from a safe distance on our long-tail boat. Mr. Chai, my favorite boat guy, knows exactly where to park so you can get those perfect shots without risking your camera becoming a monkey toy.

Food (Because Let’s Be Real, That’s Why We Travel)

You know what’s wild? The best food I’ve had wasn’t at any of the fancy restaurants. It was at this tiny place near the pier called Papaya. The lady who runs it probably makes the best massaman curry in Thailand. Bold statement, I know, but I’m sticking to it.

For sunset drinks, avoid the main beach bars (unless you enjoy paying premium prices for watered-down cocktails). Head to Long Beach instead. The walk there might make you question everything, but the sunset views and cheaper drinks make it worth it.

Real Talk About Money and Stuff

Let’s be honest:

  • The ATMs here are temperamental at best. I once had to borrow cash from a random Australian couple because none of them would accept my card. Bring more cash than you think you need.
  • Everything costs more than on the mainland. Like, significantly more. Budget accordingly or be prepared to eat a lot of pad thai from street vendors (which isn’t the worst fate, honestly).
  • That “short walk” to Long Beach? It’s not short. At all. What the map doesn’t show you is that it’s basically a jungle trek. Pack proper shoes or just take a boat taxi like a sensible person.

Not Untouched Paradise

Look, Phi Phi isn’t perfect. Parts of it are too crowded, some areas are over-developed, and sometimes you’ll pay way too much for pretty average food. But there’s something about these islands that keeps pulling me back. Maybe it’s the sunsets that make you believe in magic, or those perfect moments when you find a quiet beach all to yourself, or maybe it’s just the mango sticky rice at the night market (seriously, it’s life-changing).

Whatever you do, don’t come here expecting an untouched paradise. Come for the beauty, stay for the vibes, and remember that sometimes the best moments are the unplanned ones – like that time I got caught in a rain shower and ended up spending the afternoon learning to make pad thai from a local restaurant owner. Oh, and one last thing: bring reef-safe sunscreen. Your conscience (and the coral) will thank you.